Iceland

This was quite an adventure! We drove first to Hull, where we got the ferry to Rotterdam:-

5 April 2018: Hull, UK – Port of Hull passenger terminal building and gangways.

Overnight on the ferry, to a lovely sunny morning in Rotterdam, where we sailed in through the port and of course snapped a few photos of all the industry there:-

6 April 2018: Rotterdam, Netherlands – Chemical or Oil Tanker Besiktas Pera at Port of Rotterdam on a bright spring morning with clear blue sky.

Then, we had to drive to the north of Denmark. This took two days. Should have been six hours driving each day, but due to an autobahn accident in Germany (not us) the first day took 9 hours. I was panicking in case the same thing happened on the second day, and we missed the ship, but luckily the roads were very quiet and we easily made it.

Then, in Denmark, we got the Smyril Line ferry to Iceland. The ship is a cross between a cargo ship, a ferry and a cruise liner. Sometimes it smelled a bit fishy!

7 April 2018: At Sea – Logo of the Faroese shipping company Smyril Line, which serves Denmark and Iceland.

I had my birthday on the ship, and this is what I had. Plus a cake!

 

It’s a Faroe Islands ship, and we called in there on the way. It was really cold and miserable, far colder than Iceland. We got off the ship and had a good look round the town of Torshavn, and took lots of photos, but they are horrible. Just managed this one:-

Detail of traditional grass or sod roofed wooden building in Torshavn, Faroe Islands, showing the construction.

The population of the Faroes is only just over 50,000, but you can still get your eyebrows tattooed:-

 

You can never get to the end of your bucket list, because everywhere you go, you find somewhere else you want to go. The ship spends about an hour sailing out between the islands, which look as if they’ll be lovely in good weather:-

Cliffs, headlands and the sea stacks Risin og Kellingin on the north coast of Eysturoy, the second largest of the Faroe Islands in the North Atlantic.

We were three nights on the ship, and this was our first view of Iceland. It was very exciting!

Beams of light on the sea in Iceland’s East Fiords.

Of course everyone was up on deck, most people standing in front of some hot air vents!

10 April 2018: Eastern Fiords, Iceland – Passengers on the ferry MS Norrona congregate on deck for their first sight of Iceland.

We sailed into Seydisfjordur, which on the map is to the right of Egilstadir:-

10 April 2018: Seydisfjordur, Iceland – Icelandic port in the eastern fiords.

And headed for our first cottage, which was on a farm. We had an itinerary for the 15 days, telling us where to go, so followed that, and had our first Icelandic supermarket shop in Egilstadir. It is expensive, but if you are cautious, you needn’t spend that much. We took 3kg of food each with us, the most you are allowed, plus wine, and spent only £200 on supermarket food after that. There were a couple of ouch!!! moments when we ate out or had coffee, but we minimised them! This little village was on our first day’s itinerary:-

10 April 2018: North Iceland – Turf House Lindarbakki in the village of Bakkagerdi, Borgarfjordur Estri, North Iceland. A very old cottage built of turf, stones, wood and cement, it is inhabited by its owner during the summer months.
Traditional style church in the village of Bakkagerdi, in north east Iceland

Next day was sunny, so we went back to Seydisfjordur, to see what it looks like in sun:-

11 April 2018: Seydisfjordur, East Iceland – Smyril Line ferry MS Norrona in port on a bright spring day.

After just two nights in our first cottage (first of five) it was time to move on. We drove over a high mountain pass, through snow covered mountains. The scenery was stunning, I’m sorry this photo does not do it justice. Normally, when we take photos, we are isolating the best bits from their surroundings, but that’s not the case in Iceland. You are completely surrounded, and all a photo can do is give you just a little slice:-

The Iceland Ring Road in North Iceland, passing through dramatic mountain scenery.

We called in at Dettifoss, Iceland’s biggest waterfall, but not that photogenic from where we were standing. There was lots of snow in the east of Iceland, which apparently gets the worst of the weather. It made us realise that we probably don’t want to go in winter, as it’s just too difficult to get to the attractions. The No Drones signs are everywhere, in all the major attractions (not that we have a drone):-

12 April 2018: Vatnajokull National Park, Iceland – No Drones sign.

We saw this lovely snowman, but vandals are everywhere. When we came back, all his features were thrown on the floor.

A snowman in Vatnajokull National Park, Iceland, on a fine spring day.

Anyway, Selfoss, wasn’t too bad a waterfall, just a short trudge through the snow:-

Selfoss waterfall on the Jokulsa a Fjollum river in Northern Iceland, upstream from the Dettifoss falls.

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Our second cottage was the nicest of the ones we had, but I’ve not stayed anywhere before with dead animals on the wall:-

 

Our car after one day’s driving:-

Apparently, Iceland was discovered in the 9th century by accident, by a Faroese called Naddodd, who drifted off course and found himself in Iceland. He sailed up the coast and over wintered at Husavik on the North coast:-

13 April 2018: Husavik, North Iceland – The church, harbour and town centre.
13 April 2018: Husavik, North Iceland – Whale watching boats in the harbour on a bright spring day.

It’s the Icelandic whale watching capital now. At that time, Iceland was covered in trees, then 250 years of volcanic eruptions and 400 years of mini ice age left the island as it is now. They have a huge problem with soil erosion, due to strong winds.

Not very nice weather up in the north. During our whole stay we had three days when we didn’t bother going out, but at our age we were quite glad of a rest. You can easily get that many bad days in a two week holiday in the UK, and in New Zealand!

Iceland has a lot of lava. It is half the size of New Zealand, and has 130 volcanoes. Imagine the Tongariro crossing, spread over most of the North Island!

Lava outcrops at Dimmuborgir, near Lake Myvatn in northern Iceland.

After three days in our hunting lodge, we continued west, and called in at Godafoss, where we suddenly found loads of other tourists. We needed the toilet, but the only one was in a cafe, so we had a couple of takeaway coffees, £10 or $20.

All the attractions are free at present, but that is about to end. Iceland has a population of 350,000, and 2 million tourists a year. There are hardly any toilets, and some are truly awful. They plan to start charging at the various attractions, and using the money to build toilets!

Godafoss, the Waterfall of the Gods, a major tourist attraction in Iceland.

Our third cottage was the least nice of the ones we stayed in. It was OK, but a let down after the previous one. However, it was close to the Snaefellsness Peninsula, on the map to the left of Borgarnes, and a huge tourist attraction. It was the best day of the whole trip, due to wonderful weather – we actually didn’t need a coat – and lots of things to see in a small distance.

Here we see some of that lava I mentioned!

16 April 2018: Budir, Snaefellsnes Peninsula, West Iceland – The Black Church and a Volkswagen campervan with bikes on the back, with moss covered lava in the foreground.

Arnarstapi, a real highlight of the day. The coast here is amazing, rock stacks, blow holes, just lovely.

The mountain Stapafell reflected in a pool at Arnarstapi on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, Iceland.

 

We had lunch in a lovely cafe. Meat soup is a speciality of Iceland, so thought we’d give it a try:-

 

£35, or $70 for two bowls of soup and the bread. It was really nice, home made from scratch, including the stock and the bread.

Nice hand knitted Icelandic knitwear. £150 or $300 for a cardigan. Not too bad, as these things go.

White wooden church at Hellnar, Snaefellsnes Peninsula, West Iceland. On the left is the volcano Snaefellsjokull, covered in snow, and on the right is Stapafell.
16 April 2018: Snaefellsnes Peninsula, West Iceland – The mountain Kirkjufell and waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, Iceland, with people hiking along a track beside it.

By now you may have guessed that foss means waterfall.

The mountain Kirkjufell and waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, Iceland.
16 April 2018: Snaefellsnes Peninsula, West Iceland – Kirkjufell, famous mountain and icon of Iceland.
16 April 2018: Stykkisholmur, Snaefellsnes Peninsula, West Iceland – Boats in the harbour.
16 April 2018: Stykkisholmur Church, Snaefellsness Peninsula, West Iceland – A church which is also used as a concert hall.

You can see why Iceland reminds me in some ways of New Zealand. These houses made me think of Cromwell, that view as you drive past.

Modern homes in Sykkisholmur, West Iceland.

I’ve lost track of our cottages now, I can’t remember where they were or what they looked like. Anyway, here we are having a day out around Reykjavik. We didn’t bother stopping in the city. We drove straight through and stopped at the Viking Museum.

18 April 2018: Keflavik, Iceland – Viking World Museum.
18 April 2018: Keflavik Iceand – Statue of Floki Vilgerdarson, the first man to sail deliberately to Iceland, at the Viking World Museum.

Loved going into the Viking ship. Not something either of us ever expected to do!

18 April 2018: Keflavik, Iceland – The Islendingur, a replica of the Gokstad Viking ship, at Vikingaheimar, a Viking museum in the Reykjanes Peninsula.
18 April 2018: Keflavik, Iceland – On board the Islendingur, a replica of the Gokstad Viking Ship at Viking World museum.

Next out on to the Reykjanes Peninsula, to the left of Reykjavik on the map. Stampar Crater Row extends for 13km, would have loved to spend more time walking around here, but it was hellish windy.

A small crater at Stampar Crater Row, Reykjanes Peninsula, Iceland

The Bridge Between Continents. Tried not to think about what would happen if there was an earthquake when we were standing in the gorge:-

18 April 2018: Sandvik, Iceland – A couple emerging from the gorge at the symbolic Bridge Between Continents in the Reykjanes Peninsula, Iceland, crossing the gorge under which lies the place where the North American and Eurasian Plates meet.

A very noisy hot spring:-

Gunnuhver Hot Springs and Reykjanes Geothermal Power Station, Reykjanes Peninsual, Iceland
18 April 2018: Reykjanes Peninsula, Iceland – Tourists at Gunnuhver Hot Springs.

Now, onto the south coast, the part we’ve been waiting for. I’m glad we went north first, because the south is so incredible, the north would have been a disappointment, and that would have been a shame. Horrible weather here at Thingvellir, very drab. They are putting up huge new visitor centres on the south coast. It cost £1.50 or $3 each to go to the toilet, but we didn’t need to buy a coffee. This was a huge meeting place in the old days. There were markets and public executions of all varieties, you can read notice boards to tell you what was done to who, and where. People used to travel for up to three weeks to get here.

19 April 2018: Thingvellir National Park, Iceland – Visitors walking in the Almannagja Canyon which runs through this National Park, one of the major attractions on the Golden Circle tourist route.
Oxararfoss Waterfall at Thingvellir, Iceland, one of the major attractions on the Golden Circle tourist route.

Next, the famous Gullfoss. Firstly, No Drones:-

20 April 2018: Gullfoss Waterfall, Iceland – Drones are Forbidden sign.

Then, the waterfall:-

Iceland’s most famous waterfall, Gullfoss, in spring, from a high viewpoint.

You can walk around quite a bit, lots of trails and different viewpoints:-

20 April 2018: Gullfoss, Iceland – Visitors at the top of Gullfoss waterfall, one of the main tourist attractions in southern Iceland.

You can’t really photograph it in one shot, well maybe if you had a drone, so here is a different bit:-

Gulfoss Waterfall in southern Iceland. This is one of the major attractions on the Golden Circle tourist route.

Then, just up the road, Geysir, the original. This was the first geyser seen by westerners, and the word geyser comes from the old Norse geysir. The original Geysir is currently dormant, except when there’s an earthquake, but this one goes off every five minutes or so:-

20 April 2018: Geysir, Iceland – Strokkur hot spring in the Geysir geothermal area erupts, watched by a crowd of visitors. This is one of the major attractions on the Golden Circle tourist route.

It was hard to capture, so Colin put the camera on the tripod and set the camera to 12 shots per second until he got it. They don’t have to add detergent to make it go off, unlike the one at Waiotapu.

Iceland has a lot of glaciers. We stood in one spot on the south coast and could see four. We walked up to this one:-

21 April 2018: South Iceland – Tourists at Solheimajokull Glacier Tongue and glacial lake.
21 April 2018: South Iceland – Tourists at Solheimajokull Glacier Tongue and glacial lake.

We must have moved on to another cottage somewhere here, because I took this photo of some of the summerhouses around us, as we left:-

22 April 2018: Grimsnes, South Iceland – Icelandic summerhouses on a clear morning.

This waterfall was within walking distance, which meant we could get up early and photograph it in good light:-

Stjornarfoss waterfall on the Stjorn River at Kirkjubaejarklaustur, in southern Iceland

Another very famous foss, there is a cave behind it so you can walk round the back of it, which sounds exciting, but was cold and wet!

22 April 2018: South Iceland – Seljalandsfoss waterfall. Two people can just be seen walking on the rock behind the waterfall.

This was just a short walk from Seljalandsfoss. Colin waded into the stream to get this shot, I’d had enough of being cold and wet. I can’t help thinking Gollum!

21 April 2018: South Iceland – Gljufrabui Waterfall, and a man taking a photo with his cell phone.

Another foss, just down the road. We didn’t climb those steps. Colin said there was no point, as the view at the top of waterfalls is never very good. Ha!

22 April 2018: Skogar, South Iceland – Skogafoss waterfall, and the staircase up to the viewing platform.

More lava. This is over 3000 years old, and has moss growing all over it:-

Moss covered ancient lava field at Skaftareldahraun, South Iceland

Now, Jokulsarlon Lagoon. The ice breaks off the glacier, which you can see in the background, and floats down the river :-

Jokulsarlon glacial river lagoon, South Iceland
Jokulsarlon glacial river lagoon, South Iceland

This silly boy was standing on the ice, in spite of all the signs. He fell in. I laughed. He must have heard me. Couldn’t help it!

 

Floats down the river, under this bridge:-

Jokulsarlon glacial river lagoon and bridge, South Iceland

And gets washed up on this black sand beach:-

Diamond Beach, South Iceland, where ice from Jokulsarlon Glacial Lagoon is deposited on the volcanic black sand.
Ice on Diamond Beach, South Iceland, where ice from Jokulsarlon Glacial Lagoon is deposited on the volcanic black sand.

We are into our final day now, another lovely day, full of fantastic scenery:-

The mountain Lomagnupur in South Iceland, which can be seen from the Iceland Ring Road.
Grasses growing in black volcanic sand dunes at Stokksnes, South Iceland.

This land is privately owned, and the owner charges entry. I probably would, if I owned something like this:-

Vestrahorn or Vesturhorn Mountain, South Iceland, seen across the black sand dunes at Stokksnes.
25 April 2018: South Iceland – Tourists and cars in a rest area beside the ring road in South Iceland.
The Iceland Ring Road in South Iceland passing through snowy mountain scenery.
28 April 2018: South Iceland – Through the windscreen shot of the Iceland Ring Road in South Island, driving through snowy mountain scenery. Probably best at small sizes.

Colin decided to take a short cut, over a high mountain pass. We went from 0 to 1500 feet or 457 meters and back down again. It was a bit hairy, but once we were safely down I was glad we did it.

A high level mountain pass through snowy mountains in East Iceland.

Nearly back to the ferry now, still lots of snow in east Iceland:-

Through the windscreen shot of a tarmac road in East Iceland in foggy weather conditions, with a double bend and a distant truck or lorry.

And that was it, except for the return journey. We were hoping for better weather in the Faroes, but it was worse, and we didn’t get off the ship. Just a little bit of sun, just before we left:-

26 April 2018: Torshavn Faroe Islands – Historic Skansin Fortress and Lighthouse.
26 April 2018: Torshavn, Faroe Islands – The harbour, traditional grass roofed houses and the Hotel Hafnia in the town centre.

We would love to go back, and spend more time. Maybe take the caravan and stay for six weeks, camp nearer to the attractions so we could get better light. But at our age, with so many other things to do, who knows?

Friday we are off to Devon and Cornwall!

 

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